tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16856486067488632132024-03-19T01:47:09.267-07:00Laughing Cat Designs StudioA peek at what goes on behind the scenes at Laughing Cat Designs plus Free patterns, How To, Events, and so much more!Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-65864852325699749112015-06-03T09:03:00.000-07:002015-06-03T09:12:29.686-07:00Creating Fabric Paper Tutorial"What is Fabric Paper?" This is the question I get asked the most. The short answer is: Fabric Paper is a fusion of fabric, paper, silk fibers, paints and other fun stuff to create your own one of a kind 'fabric'. No, we aren't fusing in the traditional sense, but rather using a medium to adhere all the layers together. Traditionally, and the way I first learned to make this rather addictive product, is to use either a PVA glue (book binders glue) or one of the various acrylic mediums such as Matte Gel Medium, as the adhesive. The major problem with either product is that once dry, they become fairly stiff. While still somewhat flexible, they were not quite supple enough for making purses or journal covers, at least in my not so humble opinion. In my quest to find a product that produced that softness I was after, I realized that I already had the perfect product! Jacquard Textile Paints: #101 Colorless Extender.<br />
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I've used Jacquard Textile Paints for many years now, always amazed at how soft they are on fabrics. The Colorless Extender has all the properties of the paint, but no color so dries clear. I've used this Colorless Extender mixed with glitters to make my own glitter paints, as well as to extend my Textile Paints without the use of water. Since the product dries clear and extremely soft, it was the perfect solution!<br />
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The second most asked question is "Is Fabric Paper washable?" The short answer to this is "No.". Because of the paper content, it probably is not a good idea to toss it in the washer. However, I have taken a soft sponge to wipe off a spot or two (I am a coffeeholic and have been known to spill every so often...ahem!) quite successfully so you can spot clean this way. I would not use Fabric Paper for a bed quilt. But for wall art, journal covers, purses, and the like it will work beautifully.<br />
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And now, what you have all been waiting for... the link for the tutorial. Click here: <a href="http://laughingcatdesignsetc.com/howto">http://laughingcatdesignsetc.com/howto</a><br />
and download your very own pdf file.<br />
Enjoy and Create!<br />
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(*please respect my copyright's here, I am sharing this freely but it did take me a lot of time, effort and money to create all of this. Do not make copies and distribute. Please DO share the link to this blog and tutorial)<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-60472839749203677702012-06-23T10:38:00.000-07:002012-06-23T10:38:15.380-07:00Work In Progress (for too long)I recently gave a lecture for the Westside Quilters Guild in Hilsboro, OR and completely re-vamped my power point presentation and notes for it. One quilt I included in the slide show was of a Work in Progress I started nearly two years ago. I included it to demonstrate several surface design techniques 'in use' on one piece. <br />
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This is the photo included in the slide show. I cropped the edges of the photo to give it a more finished look in the presentation but at the moment it is still all uneven raw edges while it is being quilted. Techniques include purpose painted fabric that was backed with fusible web, the 'rocks' were cut out and fused down along with curvy cut strips of batiks, hand dyes, and over painted hand dyes (scraps of hand dye or batik that I added Lumiere paint to 'renew' them.) The rocks are stitched down with a straight stitch and then I used garnet quilting in between, some of the 'bubbles' are painted in with the same colors used on the rock fabric. In the upper right corner of the main section of rocks, you can just make out some yarn that was needle felted in between the rocks. At this point there is no backing yet on this quilt. <br />
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This next photo shows the current state of the quilt. I have finished the yarn needle felting, added backing and begun quilting the different fabrics. All the dark pieces are quilted, which took more time because I was quilting in between all the rocks and yarns, lots of starts and stops. I had started on the colorful pieces and was quilting just fine one day, then the next day my machine decided suddenly it did not want to quilt anymore and started shredding threads. I have changed bobbins, re-threaded numerous times, changed needles several times and all those tricks we learn. Now it goes in to the machine doctor to be tuned up. I'll add more photos and updates as I continue working on this piece. I want to finish the quilting on the various fabric pieces so that I can start beading. I am also considering trimming this down a bit, taking off part of the top section to make it a bit more balanced. What do you think?Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-58932871627870775412011-10-09T15:44:00.000-07:002011-10-09T15:44:08.972-07:00Homecoming DressYou may be wondering what I have been up to lately; it has been SO long since my last post. The answer is A LOT (and we'll get to that in a later post, I promise!), but one of the major things very recently was making a dress for my youngest daughter Megan to wear to Homecoming. Now I may quilt, thread paint, and play with fiber art very comfortably... but I am not a garment sewer! I of course sewed simple things for my girls when they were little, along with the usual home crafty stuff, muslin bunnies, etc. However, anytime I tried to sew for myself, I was totally lost and nothing fit. This is something I have decided to learn 'for real' by signing up for an online course and buying the book. Don't ask me why I agreed to take this challenge of formal dressmaking on, especially for a special event that my daughter would be counting on me to produce something for her to wear with pride. Not to mention the fact that she designed her dress herself, on a sketch pad, and wanted me to produce what she had envisioned! <br />
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With a promise from her to keep an open mind and compromise just a bit in design and fabric choices and with a budget of $60.00, we headed off to the fabric store feeling much like the designers on Project Runway. Amazingly we found a pattern that was fairly similar to her design, and even better it was 'Easy' and on sale for 1.99! Originally envisioning a white with blue dot underskirt, she agreed that rather than searching high and low for the perfect fabric, the sheer white with sparkles fabric would work. We found the perfect navy blue satin, white tulle and lining, and a bright pink for a bow. Plus, we had about 23.00 left in change!<br />
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By combining the two skirt styles on the dress, making a muslin and drawing on the over skirt where the split needed to be, I was able to get pretty darn close to what she had designed. Then, because Megan is very tiny, we had to fit the bodice quite a bit. This, I think, was the hardest part for me because I am still learning how all of these go together. When you adjust the size on all these odd shaped little pieces, they do NOT line up anymore! Eventually it all came together and Megan was thrilled with her new dress! <br />
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We added heat set crystals to the top of the bodice, which did not really photograph well here but added just a touch of bling. About an hour before she had to be at the restaurant to meet up with her friends, I discovered she did not have shoes after all (I had thought she was going to wear some flats she already had) and we had to run out to find a pair. We ended up finding a cute little pair of slingbacks in white (one of those dye-able shoes they make for special occasions) that were on clearance for $15.00! It was also BOGO (buy one get one half off) so we found a little silver purse for 10.99 and got it for 5.49! I love a good sale!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwj3Wai6O2rkUyqNod75of_xIdaRM5yf4BInjJrRj7KxzcV4GZLDvNvUxn3VCLiH_sl40r95whO5awkDN8CTOIpreJLwhCBnG7zulUlEamML_NRcWD3DH16xaurdA_hVPcBz3gZ7Fmtbw/s1600/shoes+purse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwj3Wai6O2rkUyqNod75of_xIdaRM5yf4BInjJrRj7KxzcV4GZLDvNvUxn3VCLiH_sl40r95whO5awkDN8CTOIpreJLwhCBnG7zulUlEamML_NRcWD3DH16xaurdA_hVPcBz3gZ7Fmtbw/s320/shoes+purse.jpg" width="303" /></a></div>I wish I had a good picture of Megan in her dress to show you all, but by the time we were taking them it was so dark that nothing really turned out well. This was the best one I got. She was hunched over because it was cold out as she paused so I could snap the pic before running inside, so it looks like it doesn't fit well.<br />
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I was able to see a demonstration of this great new product and was totally blown away. Discharging is something I have played with a few times, but because of the strong fumes and mess of bleach or the unreliable results of other discharge products I haven't really done a lot with it. However, this new product has really impressed me for several reasons, not the least of which is the fact that it has little to no fumes.<br />
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First of all there are two types of product: deColourant and deColourant Plus. The deColourant is just that, only the deColourant product that takes color out of any natural fiber (cotton, silk, etc. no synthetics). It comes in two forms: a creme that is painted on and also a spray on. The spray is fun for creating background effects, and also for soft speckled effect with stencils.<br />
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Then there is deColourant Plus. This is the deColourant creme with a pigment and binder added in. It essentially take the color out of the fabric and replaces it with a new color. Amazing! Note that this also comes in spray form, but my distributor is not carrying it at this point so I haven't gotten my grubby paint stained paws onto any... YET.<br />
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I was a bit skeptical at first, but after watching the demonstration and then playing with the product myself I am very excited at the possibilities. <br />
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<div style="color: #38761d; text-align: center;"><u><b><span style="font-size: large;">Play Day!</span></b></u></div><br />
<b style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-size: small;"><u>First Up: deColourant Creme!</u></span></b><br />
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I wanted to see what the results would be on the ultimate test fabric: Black. The first piece I did turned out pretty well considering I hadn't washed the fabric first. I used a stencil from Cedar Canyon Designs to make the leaf shapes, then used my sponge brush to add patterning to the background. The trick with this product is to LET IT DRY before you heat set it. Now if you are like me and very impatient to get on with it, you can use a heat gun or even a plain ol hair dryer to dry the product. Once it is totally dry, use a dry iron over the product. I was amazed! This photo shows the piece after it was heat set and after I hand washed it to see if anything came out.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEislvwzqAfd4g32RhprHXz_n4SjG_e9VRHooMELkpM5n4If6W45Tjuy4uq4QqVA5KGR4Gs0BYIiSOIfRDd7oJJ1u5CPs3AtBpKrqEMWF00ZFifuCAX6_6iHGRRVq1jEjmqxD1grtnVrSHE/s1600/before+washing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEislvwzqAfd4g32RhprHXz_n4SjG_e9VRHooMELkpM5n4If6W45Tjuy4uq4QqVA5KGR4Gs0BYIiSOIfRDd7oJJ1u5CPs3AtBpKrqEMWF00ZFifuCAX6_6iHGRRVq1jEjmqxD1grtnVrSHE/s320/before+washing.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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When I realized I was using fabric that hadn't been washed, (big sigh, I know better) I took some pieces and washed them. *Remember* when you wash fabric to paint on, never use anything with fragrance, softeners, or any other additives and don't use dryer sheets. This will all interfere with <i>any</i> product you try to put on your fabric. My results were much better with the washed fabric. Remember, both pieces are the same fabric and only the deColourant creme with no pigment. Notice how in the photo above the result still has some color in it, while the sample below with the washed fabric gave me much better results. I have also hand washed this piece after heat setting to compare the results.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDG3FrvyJyEwNimJlLwy6z_NDUHPjvYcAPfZREQgq4X-a-Vcv-J2br9SEMh2S1jlL08I8yfl1CzV2529GgRLebiQFk1qE26oPWZlxCp4CeU-TbXr_2fLNRt0YpMAjROzwdILPZJKS_-Fk/s1600/fabric+washed+results.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDG3FrvyJyEwNimJlLwy6z_NDUHPjvYcAPfZREQgq4X-a-Vcv-J2br9SEMh2S1jlL08I8yfl1CzV2529GgRLebiQFk1qE26oPWZlxCp4CeU-TbXr_2fLNRt0YpMAjROzwdILPZJKS_-Fk/s320/fabric+washed+results.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><b>Next Up: deColourant Plus!</b></u></div><br />
One of the things I was told during the demonstration was that hand dyed fabrics worked very well for this process. Since I have a TON of my own hand dyed fabric laying around I decided to give it a go. This is another stencil I carry from Delta, can you tell I love leaves? I settled on a nice green fabric and used Red, Yellow, and Orange with a simple foam brush. In the photo below you can see two leaves are finished and the one on the lower right is not yet heat set. After drying the leaf it is dull and looks like I just used a regular fabric paint on the fabric.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhou9zQjpqQ-lLgJq8URz__3qOU9y3yketh5vJdTwHYAO15bYag2gYxqAsIZm9xbugY0SMv26uO1iiU82wRHmvGUDlOhREe9Cq0Jo52sRvzhEjxnyKzkBi9c9BjEA6QCycKWP7qR_ScX9U/s1600/one+leaf+unset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhou9zQjpqQ-lLgJq8URz__3qOU9y3yketh5vJdTwHYAO15bYag2gYxqAsIZm9xbugY0SMv26uO1iiU82wRHmvGUDlOhREe9Cq0Jo52sRvzhEjxnyKzkBi9c9BjEA6QCycKWP7qR_ScX9U/s400/one+leaf+unset.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Here I ironed most of the leaf so you could begin to see the difference. See how the color is coming up on the upper right and middle of the leaf, replacing the green in the fabric! The left and lower ends of the leaf are not yet heat set and so not quite as vibrant.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikYh2b7fDtJ3ugiBBZ-6-LQPnHT7e6vl-cTd0huhW-DhTdAhUtg9lhFhKAhH_KxYLezODRiGUwFVNkUbNJhNIVxj29JerZtiQCU13uo5OS3EJs1WGUPTvFCFXWBO8OW_cBeWEOAnCMqtk/s1600/partial+dry+leaf+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikYh2b7fDtJ3ugiBBZ-6-LQPnHT7e6vl-cTd0huhW-DhTdAhUtg9lhFhKAhH_KxYLezODRiGUwFVNkUbNJhNIVxj29JerZtiQCU13uo5OS3EJs1WGUPTvFCFXWBO8OW_cBeWEOAnCMqtk/s320/partial+dry+leaf+detail.jpg" width="310" /></a></div><br />
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After the deColourant and deColourant Plus is heat set, it can be washed and dried like a normal fabric. Make sure you really heat set it a good five minutes on all painted sections (move your iron around and you wont scorch the fabric) so that nothing washes out. Once washed, there is barely any feel to the painted sections depending upon how much paint you used.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwmr8uJu4wO6yrou4XACbF5sFfVoHiL11OksrAHHp_9pTyZ-QL3SlsOzkkPHhgRF9v5gQWKN0Jg5eOeoncZSDFBTMeKFbhnOawfpDaB7PinneBZ9j4utksL0NI2bd0EY48WA-UggjVB3c/s1600/finished+leaves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwmr8uJu4wO6yrou4XACbF5sFfVoHiL11OksrAHHp_9pTyZ-QL3SlsOzkkPHhgRF9v5gQWKN0Jg5eOeoncZSDFBTMeKFbhnOawfpDaB7PinneBZ9j4utksL0NI2bd0EY48WA-UggjVB3c/s400/finished+leaves.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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I can't wait to play more with this fun new product, <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/catalog/7">deColourant and deColourant Plus</a>!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-78333525941327293502011-02-24T08:00:00.000-08:002011-02-24T08:00:03.676-08:00How To Series 1: Thread Painting 101 - Review and Wrap UpWhat an exciting adventure this has been! I have had so much fun sharing with all of you, and reading the feedback from emails and comments sent. This has hopefully given you the tools needed to begin your own Thread Painting journey. My hope is that by taking things one baby step at a time, Thread Painting would be less of a scary mystery that only 'advanced sewers' can do, and more of a fun learning experience that anyone can participate in and grow from. <br />
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This has been a learning experience for me as well! In the past I have had a blog and posted to it maybe twice a year... maybe. Blogs have come a long way since then and when I started this one I had to essentially re-learn it all. I am glad I did though, this has really been a rewarding experience for me!<br />
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<u style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-size: large;">Combining Stitches </span></u><br />
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Before we end this series, I wanted to show you some examples of combining the stitches<b> </b>we have learned. While many of the pieces I have done use only one type of stitch, Thread Painting is extremely effective when the different stitch techniques are combined.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbhUgcPXRoaRX9LDZP_9RCZMnN9DgGq32ff54Bn4C8t2nNSI3oTnS7kUPjfkRB2gEFHXPiLw1kXeMpGo4iejjiTpRweyn7M71gV57RaM8AYq0nSgWjjfW4FSgxFYG060D_XfdZ6vlw_Z8/s1600/hummer+cover+LR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbhUgcPXRoaRX9LDZP_9RCZMnN9DgGq32ff54Bn4C8t2nNSI3oTnS7kUPjfkRB2gEFHXPiLw1kXeMpGo4iejjiTpRweyn7M71gV57RaM8AYq0nSgWjjfW4FSgxFYG060D_XfdZ6vlw_Z8/s640/hummer+cover+LR.jpg" width="537" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the Hummingbird and Fuchsias quilt, the leaves and parts of the flowers use a directional zigzag stitch, while other parts of the flower and the buds use a directional straight stitch in order to emphasize the shape.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-u_j0U6oYaIKU5bZ1q-q3idv_NpMip9QDTUdvitRaVZHFdTZrBKApOtCsVsLg4vTXMlceKKLMBwlxOwLP4LqdFZ4OG6lpuH8zntPVmh1HYfkw8oGp1HqPj3H7KFrhHEa1FYpi7yTTck/s1600/hummer+leaf+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-u_j0U6oYaIKU5bZ1q-q3idv_NpMip9QDTUdvitRaVZHFdTZrBKApOtCsVsLg4vTXMlceKKLMBwlxOwLP4LqdFZ4OG6lpuH8zntPVmh1HYfkw8oGp1HqPj3H7KFrhHEa1FYpi7yTTck/s320/hummer+leaf+detail.jpg" width="318" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>The Sunflowers detail shown below uses a combination of the directional straight stitch, directional zigzag, and zigzag meander on the petals, as well as zigzag meander and straight stitch detailing on the leaves.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCipVIjTqB2ZNhbl-cCMxR3ULbdr0J7lAyKyR_kPPKeXzKS0NJPERdCbEFzDT5po1hwXDjlM4i9alf_B90xqwYm2mwBexYmKsxKhDT-s0O558Da9fqWBEdiEKcQJ3njcsSGBd1ElFqxiA/s1600/sunflower+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCipVIjTqB2ZNhbl-cCMxR3ULbdr0J7lAyKyR_kPPKeXzKS0NJPERdCbEFzDT5po1hwXDjlM4i9alf_B90xqwYm2mwBexYmKsxKhDT-s0O558Da9fqWBEdiEKcQJ3njcsSGBd1ElFqxiA/s400/sunflower+detail.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
In this detail shot of a vest I made years ago, the pansy flowers use both the meander zigzag and the directional zigzag stitching. Notice the leaves use the directional zigzag to applique them, giving them a more feathery look.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia71kNzGXdmt-RRepkKOM0LNNckGFKr5BT-xV0s8U2yotC-JX7ow_JAugGEDEVAHWe5OvK-8Tpdjs2CSsm7lwHXE1THlXKVXdVjdp3xu6vLa_ZCQjBMxNjK10WspHvZEGYA4bTxYX-T_4/s1600/pansy+vest+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia71kNzGXdmt-RRepkKOM0LNNckGFKr5BT-xV0s8U2yotC-JX7ow_JAugGEDEVAHWe5OvK-8Tpdjs2CSsm7lwHXE1THlXKVXdVjdp3xu6vLa_ZCQjBMxNjK10WspHvZEGYA4bTxYX-T_4/s400/pansy+vest+detail.jpg" width="395" /></a></div><br />
And finally, this Lily was done using fabric paint and then Thread Painted. A directional straight stitch and a directional zigzag were used. The stamen details were also added using a very dense directional zigzag stitch.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSNhigsnA99J4HFEnw_cEZY-e_OJHyYmy5iu3c97nR8ou6ZETl6vk9fIFIz7W71G5p2ZC2XarYePWP2EHILbeivf3nD8Mktpq8KH-w6kikpbQsbns-fGVx7yeOzoFVsJLuzmNtt4PPGG8/s1600/Daylily.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSNhigsnA99J4HFEnw_cEZY-e_OJHyYmy5iu3c97nR8ou6ZETl6vk9fIFIz7W71G5p2ZC2XarYePWP2EHILbeivf3nD8Mktpq8KH-w6kikpbQsbns-fGVx7yeOzoFVsJLuzmNtt4PPGG8/s400/Daylily.jpg" width="331" /></a></div><br />
<u style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-size: large;">Calling for Your Input</span></u><br />
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Have you been practicing your Thread Painting? I'd love to see what you've been working on and I am sure everyone else would too! If you have played with the Thread Painting techniques on a project or practice piece, I'd like to post some photos right here on the blog. So finish up those projects, or even a Work In Progress and send a <b>.jpg</b> file along with what you used and where and we will get it up on the blog. Do you have questions or need advice or clarification on something? Send those too and I will try to answer as best as possible. Pictures are worth a thousand words, so try to send a picture ( in a .jpg format please) along with your questions, comments, or success stories. How to get in touch with me? <a href="mailto:angela@laughingcatdesignsetc.com">Click here to Email me.</a><br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Whats next??</span></u></div><br />
That is my question... I plan on sharing what I am doing in the studio, whether it is a pattern or project in progress (I have several of those going!) or just Fun Stuff that I come across or am playing with or learn about. But what I'd like to know is what do you want to see? Let me know!<br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">A Great Big Thank You!</span></u></div><br />
I want to tell you all Thank You for all the support, the encouraging words, for sharing the link here and for just plain reading and learning from this series. I can't tell you how much fun I have had interacting with all of you!<br />
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Angela R McIntyre<br />
<a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/">Laughing Cat Designs</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-57375717736580019962011-02-17T08:01:00.000-08:002011-02-17T08:07:54.079-08:00How To Series 1: Thread Painting 101 - Directional Straight StitchWe have learned about the proper tools and correct supplies, how to Thread Paint using a basic meander zigzag, add detail with a basic straight stitch, and last week we learned how to expand on the zigzag stitch by using it directionally. However, there are times when a piece needs to be thread painted, but the zigzag stitches just don't fit in with the feel of the piece and it needs a bit more than detail work.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LQkZGKUwJ5hhbsbzCmPJkPxX9vLFvTkKLe8O8SJ6uyBDRQMIG0Msvli1QN8A9fl4W6nUffV8CMjzTk41fBxJnarSsIWZxXbKAbZq7dNmnONSAoh_MJt6D97KrfvraNaUsbZ90YaP_2A/s1600/gingko+leaves+full.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LQkZGKUwJ5hhbsbzCmPJkPxX9vLFvTkKLe8O8SJ6uyBDRQMIG0Msvli1QN8A9fl4W6nUffV8CMjzTk41fBxJnarSsIWZxXbKAbZq7dNmnONSAoh_MJt6D97KrfvraNaUsbZ90YaP_2A/s640/gingko+leaves+full.jpg" width="308" /></a></div><br />
<div style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Directional Straight Stitch</u></span></div><br />
I call this a directional stitch because it uses a very purposeful direction in the stitch in order to get the look we are after. With this stitch we can accomplish both painting with thread to apply the colors we want, and control the shape and add motion to the piece. As with the detail lines, we use our 'S' curves rather than a straight line. By adding many more lines of stitching we build up the thread painting adding color just as we did with the zigzag stitching. Remember that these lines are not always an S but they always have at least a bit of a curve in them. This will help to shape our pieces and give them a more natural appearance. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu5s4W20GHJ58ifgXRbZsGFTpI1aRT-8ugEnnBav-cHP18P2ImqR7UrJXdH9plEv1aMJLYT5Dt_b0JZ31dx3wgC6TYD0yGwNjS2seBqNYYh2hSP9Db0y3aSWnYdsGYy5cKtR2KayWlkpA/s1600/gingko+leaves+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu5s4W20GHJ58ifgXRbZsGFTpI1aRT-8ugEnnBav-cHP18P2ImqR7UrJXdH9plEv1aMJLYT5Dt_b0JZ31dx3wgC6TYD0yGwNjS2seBqNYYh2hSP9Db0y3aSWnYdsGYy5cKtR2KayWlkpA/s320/gingko+leaves+detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Straight Stitch Thread Painting </span></u></div><br />
In some cases, we don't really want to build color up from shadows as we have in the past, but just to add color to liven up a piece. In the sample below, the color additions liven up the foliage. Most of the time we backtrack along the stitch line and then branch off for more stitch lines. I can also carefully travel a few stitches along a seam line or the base of the applique piece to the next position, and then continue Thread Painting. Another method, especially useful when many lines of stitching are on a piece, is to not quite follow all the way along your stitch line when backtracking and end up an eighth to a quarter of an inch away from your start point. These techniques allow you to travel along an applique piece without it being too noticeable. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQB0kiGf6WHzyVS3eoP0ExB8Vzsz83rrQ7l2S5pGC_uXJhhS8bm6aXXiqdoxFgbAsL8yq65SXY6Ew0IejA568Pfo_Ll5aInEslUoZNa7wdwUE8e3sDOtvHO4FIo0Uq1rFDdjy4BGCH3j4/s1600/tall+foliage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQB0kiGf6WHzyVS3eoP0ExB8Vzsz83rrQ7l2S5pGC_uXJhhS8bm6aXXiqdoxFgbAsL8yq65SXY6Ew0IejA568Pfo_Ll5aInEslUoZNa7wdwUE8e3sDOtvHO4FIo0Uq1rFDdjy4BGCH3j4/s400/tall+foliage.jpg" width="291" /></a></div><br />
<u><span style="font-size: large;">Adding Motion</span></u><br />
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By adding long lines of thread painted color, we also add motion to our pieces. In the case of the Flower Bowl below, we have room to add long curvy lines to give the effect of a flower petal that has curve and flow. Notice some of the darker contrasting thread colors that emphasize these curving lines.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimB19bzk6O3hkN-TkFEjyl08fGEwG92Vs3ZX0byYGW46up1koSbLcUF3rQlD77KOEmgtVP5xVoVwSLzTBdg5utczlmM_qSrxDrlGHpRR6Ggx2WryzElnxY8hpN-F1ESa_-QMjp5OnbDhI/s1600/Small+Flower+1+LR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimB19bzk6O3hkN-TkFEjyl08fGEwG92Vs3ZX0byYGW46up1koSbLcUF3rQlD77KOEmgtVP5xVoVwSLzTBdg5utczlmM_qSrxDrlGHpRR6Ggx2WryzElnxY8hpN-F1ESa_-QMjp5OnbDhI/s400/Small+Flower+1+LR.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="color: #351c75;"><br />
</div><div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Building Color</span></u></div><br />
Our colors are built using the same methods as before, we are just using the straight stitch. Add your cool tones and shadows first, working your way up through mid tones, and then lights and highlights.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTEnKf7q26kb-eOOElj_AKikuXE7tETAh8-reClwTd-90X3I7JTjJ3P5o4YPD6aacwBEnzgC15ec9ae0AKj5Lc8a7rZ3lSY8-EHgkxjAjQa9dn9pFFqF57eP-_r2JJbSL_mFBWC8-__cE/s1600/flower+petal+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTEnKf7q26kb-eOOElj_AKikuXE7tETAh8-reClwTd-90X3I7JTjJ3P5o4YPD6aacwBEnzgC15ec9ae0AKj5Lc8a7rZ3lSY8-EHgkxjAjQa9dn9pFFqF57eP-_r2JJbSL_mFBWC8-__cE/s320/flower+petal+detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<u><b>Homework:</b></u> Play with this expanded version of the straight stitch and practice building color and thread up. Remember to practice traveling and the S curve.<br />
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<u style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-size: large;">Next week - Final Installment</span></u><br />
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Examples of combining stitches, and a review of what we have learned in this series.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-37947400464082910402011-02-11T10:46:00.000-08:002011-02-11T10:46:54.246-08:00How To Series 1: Thread Painting 101 - Directional ZigzagThe key to successful Thread Painting is Practice, Practice, Practice! Have you been practicing your Thread Painting? Now that we have the basics covered, it is time to expand on the stitches we have covered. In the first Thread Painting stitch, zigzag meander, we used a zigzag stitch to apply thread color to where we wanted it. With this new stitch we will be a bit more deliberate about where we apply our color. In the quilt below, Hummingbirds and Fuchsias, much of the Thread Painting done on the applique pieces was a directional zigzag stitch.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSp0JPD4hTorjbd5x5tbLr4AFpR7-DvAJRKdUPFffDvD89m-ixMfMt6DNI2ldHyarXp_65EP69nNAXucIn4FJMwLSvfgm2CRDPOGNHWd5W1v2GVTt0vtzAqaOBnHNcihuPkQbJ6u8mqM/s1600/hummer+cover+LR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSp0JPD4hTorjbd5x5tbLr4AFpR7-DvAJRKdUPFffDvD89m-ixMfMt6DNI2ldHyarXp_65EP69nNAXucIn4FJMwLSvfgm2CRDPOGNHWd5W1v2GVTt0vtzAqaOBnHNcihuPkQbJ6u8mqM/s640/hummer+cover+LR.jpg" width="537" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/27">Hummingbirds and Fuchsias</a></td></tr>
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">Directional Zigzag</span></u><br />
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The reason I call this a 'directional' stitch is because we are not just meandering but rather stitching in a specific direction to get a specific result. The stitch is done by setting your machine to a medium width zigzag, feed dogs lowered of course, and stitching from side to side. No moving all around, we always move side to side with only a very slight forward or backward motion in order to stitch the areas we need to cover. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaUr3FowSRoaKL51qWeS4PbatnWVg6-anWoxXw2QCzrdJqlEEIm_jDILJ2qllYHWLBtgIczI1E-84v2TEohs4LszIioAJRAYQIMnVOcHQpLXmLSCW7-4ZEV7iU1czEPVqop9ohD_f8cCQ/s1600/ZZ2+stitch+motion+edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaUr3FowSRoaKL51qWeS4PbatnWVg6-anWoxXw2QCzrdJqlEEIm_jDILJ2qllYHWLBtgIczI1E-84v2TEohs4LszIioAJRAYQIMnVOcHQpLXmLSCW7-4ZEV7iU1czEPVqop9ohD_f8cCQ/s400/ZZ2+stitch+motion+edit.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
This stitching can be done very lightly for touches of color, on up to very heavily stitched pieces that look almost machine embroidered. This is in fact the stitch we use for Free Motion Embroidery. When we stitch heavier we need a bit of extra stabilizer, as this stitch tends to pucker a bit more than the meander or simple straight stitch detailing. On the 'Hummingbirds and Fuchsias' quilt above, I used two layers of Stitch n Tear, and left the stabilizer under my applique pieces while I Thread Painted. Once I was done I removed it from around the pieces, and ironed with steam using a pressing cloth.<br />
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">Practice </span></u><br />
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Lets practice the stitch. Layer a practice piece of fabric onto a stabilizer. You can use two layers of stitch n tear or a piece of the Decor Bond. Since we are just practicing, it is nice to have the extra stabilization to make it easier to stitch. This can always be adjusted depending on the project you are working on.<br />
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Place your hands on either side of the fabric and begin stitching. Slowly move side to side, a few inches at a time. Try a a bit of a meander in your side to side stitching by moving slightly forward and backwards and back and forth as you create a line of side to side stitching. Play with the stitch, moving slower while your machine stitches faster, and then switch to moving a bit faster with a slower stitch speed. Pay attention to your results. Now cover a smaller area, concentrating on building color. Alternate the length of your side to side stitch; this will be essential to blending and a more natural look. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioXTa9Pkf3iaGZaYYaT0nDJ4q1SKsA0T1NQGSi6cgbXIarWbTLLlwM8Juz0K2zsZrhd0lHGTjgqcrwTYg2u3uQatLF70OA-bZDI2IDbq6d_S8lTO7FkROC01p-QVb5ot7gLJCUe3b3Ch8/s1600/ZZ2+Practice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioXTa9Pkf3iaGZaYYaT0nDJ4q1SKsA0T1NQGSi6cgbXIarWbTLLlwM8Juz0K2zsZrhd0lHGTjgqcrwTYg2u3uQatLF70OA-bZDI2IDbq6d_S8lTO7FkROC01p-QVb5ot7gLJCUe3b3Ch8/s320/ZZ2+Practice.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">Rotating and Pivoting</span></u><br />
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Sometimes we need to rotate or pivot when we apply color with the directional zigzag. This is done by always returning to our 'center point' before pivoting to a new direction. In the Pansy below, the center point of the flower pieces is at the base of each petal. Along the leaves the center is the vein line.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIaF-m1azzz9caRf09geLNEkwGnTRdGOLKHMYSjVpAaMHPwycYSpZoskGWBZieULAO768vzUsHstP12Ta6Z6MV5h0XGxsisZqOYSrH6S7cXZbq-JHqp9xCy7Ffk9dlU2BJ7gpW37xRjXE/s1600/pansy+block+LR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIaF-m1azzz9caRf09geLNEkwGnTRdGOLKHMYSjVpAaMHPwycYSpZoskGWBZieULAO768vzUsHstP12Ta6Z6MV5h0XGxsisZqOYSrH6S7cXZbq-JHqp9xCy7Ffk9dlU2BJ7gpW37xRjXE/s320/pansy+block+LR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">Building Color</span></u><br />
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Now that you have the feel of the stitch, lets Thread Paint a basic leaf shape using the Directional Zigzag stitch. As with the basic Meander Zigzag, we stitch our colors in order starting with shadow and cool tones, then the mid range colors, and finally highlights and warmth. Each of these can have as many colors as it takes to get the effect desired. There are always exceptions to the 'rules' however. In the Pansy above I was concentrating more on adding color to the flower than adding the basic shadow/mid range/highlight. Those basics are in there, but in order to get the coloration I wanted I 'broke the rules' so to speak.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_W2ewtx5PTN5ZkvIBvcHnt4cCIy92Nzny3iZWRcmMhtThgxUqFipctHMI_iwHeRWDLG60bEboseDX0SG4c9ftOFYayDzcunoIEw89OMYHc6rb5atZtkmobBWtpANBUbDjySjCIzSt6-4/s1600/ZZ2+thread+pallet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_W2ewtx5PTN5ZkvIBvcHnt4cCIy92Nzny3iZWRcmMhtThgxUqFipctHMI_iwHeRWDLG60bEboseDX0SG4c9ftOFYayDzcunoIEw89OMYHc6rb5atZtkmobBWtpANBUbDjySjCIzSt6-4/s320/ZZ2+thread+pallet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
To keep this simple we will use just three colors. One shadow, one mid range, and one highlight. Remember that these three basic colors can also be variegated. This will give the look of having added much more thread color than we actually did! I chose a very muted green fabric so that you could see the thread work a bit easier as well.<br />
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">Start Stitching </span></u><br />
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Machine applique a basic leaf shape to a background fabric, using two layers of stitch n tear or a piece of decor bond as your stabilizer. Try to make a slightly larger leaf, so that you have room to actually practice. On the leaf, trace a line for the center vein using a chalk marking pencil. Now mark directional lines as shown. These lines will give you a guide as you begin stitching so that you will know both where to stitch and what direction.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjq4SzdhNyKNxIFJrhwt5tTvKsaogsjNAWtAKZD42a8UFFhOrwVef95TcHyfTRurfU-QH2VT1HOgBTJsnxzPmkK_fmBGTjdwxhhk3upfvI5XzhraP3_XcjDsP1Q1nPxuDS6mi3FzJdrs/s1600/ZZ2+Leaf+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjq4SzdhNyKNxIFJrhwt5tTvKsaogsjNAWtAKZD42a8UFFhOrwVef95TcHyfTRurfU-QH2VT1HOgBTJsnxzPmkK_fmBGTjdwxhhk3upfvI5XzhraP3_XcjDsP1Q1nPxuDS6mi3FzJdrs/s320/ZZ2+Leaf+1.jpg" width="281" /></a></div><br />
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">Shadows/Cool</span></u><br />
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Begin stitching along one side of the vein with your cool color. On my leaf I am using my favorite muted dusty purple to add cool. Stitch side to side, always stopping along the center vein line but varying the length of the stitch line on the other side. Pivot as needed along the vein line to keep your stitching fairly parallel to your guide lines.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLiHL8Esb1emx3idH3HG0hO3b3PEQfro8irJ2zAM7U2Xf_LRMbBmOBUxDHPJlfeDnRdFj6YxV9lu6nTPLywZynWrWlAJHaGy7REJ8SDm5w_C2wsJ5ciSilYthD0dfnjaNbRuQn6InOXR4/s1600/ZZ2+leaf+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLiHL8Esb1emx3idH3HG0hO3b3PEQfro8irJ2zAM7U2Xf_LRMbBmOBUxDHPJlfeDnRdFj6YxV9lu6nTPLywZynWrWlAJHaGy7REJ8SDm5w_C2wsJ5ciSilYthD0dfnjaNbRuQn6InOXR4/s320/ZZ2+leaf+2.jpg" width="238" /></a></div><br />
<u><span style="font-size: large;">Mid-range </span></u><br />
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Now switch to a medium tone, I used a nice green that went well with my leaf color. Stitch around the cool tone on the one side, carefully pivoting at the tip of the leaf, and then stitch along the vein line down the other side. Remember to blend into the shadow/cool area.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG70Ft57nv5HHeOLE_kYVl7cLvulW1oJsHlG2GK7PBbwMUCu8eaJ2yQz4oHb28oIiUYx_Z6wNlGFlaHCmiXiLYxmcq0Yn_7QwjLhyqMbU8tpvSP4aRuh7-AzdEa-ER8a2BBQ-WlScYIm4/s1600/ZZ2+leaf+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG70Ft57nv5HHeOLE_kYVl7cLvulW1oJsHlG2GK7PBbwMUCu8eaJ2yQz4oHb28oIiUYx_Z6wNlGFlaHCmiXiLYxmcq0Yn_7QwjLhyqMbU8tpvSP4aRuh7-AzdEa-ER8a2BBQ-WlScYIm4/s320/ZZ2+leaf+3.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<u><span style="font-size: large;">Highlight</span></u><br />
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For my highlight color I am using a warm variegated yellows/oranges thread. This will do two things, it adds warmth and highlight at the same time, and it will help you to see the difference in the stitching for our example photo. Stitch along the edges of the leaf as shown, and then add just a bit to the middle of the mid range area. This creates kind of a visual 'bend' in the leaf by bringing that portion a bit more forward.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ1q9XLSMugUma7rgHqpngXQkF70aeL_ziqSWeFscZ3VDzVnjuFXvSLuuU4Gs1PDViNCSWpVJsYV6v33xobT3QwPtvRpHR9iy85dg012HMCuqcY8z-0HO-qn_a5chnSP-mXOIJmu9E6jE/s1600/ZZ2+leaf+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ1q9XLSMugUma7rgHqpngXQkF70aeL_ziqSWeFscZ3VDzVnjuFXvSLuuU4Gs1PDViNCSWpVJsYV6v33xobT3QwPtvRpHR9iy85dg012HMCuqcY8z-0HO-qn_a5chnSP-mXOIJmu9E6jE/s320/ZZ2+leaf+4.jpg" width="251" /></a></div><br />
I use this same basic method for the flowers and birds in the Hummingbirds and Fuchsias quilt, and for the pansy applique. In the photo below, the Leaf Bowls used the directional zigzag stitch over the entire leaf and many more colors are used. You can see how building up your colors really makes a difference in the overall look of the finished piece. *Note - the <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/63">Leaf Bowls</a> (and the <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/48">Flower Bowls</a>) use a much heavier stabilizer called <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/catalog/17">Fast2Fuse Heavyweight</a> in order to give them the heft they need to become 'bowls'.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJ6xOD_6c6nh3wExhNyhcgZxsSarxOVtcZ1Z3KPRm7FlKOLuG0inb7g6zs9y7wHcbJfIqHXQxsXKoR6fYsC8fjmrKC3UP0r4GHAtKXmPF_X_Ce3a55-_DjWLUuz718-4v-heaYBzHVzM/s1600/both+leaves+sample+mr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJ6xOD_6c6nh3wExhNyhcgZxsSarxOVtcZ1Z3KPRm7FlKOLuG0inb7g6zs9y7wHcbJfIqHXQxsXKoR6fYsC8fjmrKC3UP0r4GHAtKXmPF_X_Ce3a55-_DjWLUuz718-4v-heaYBzHVzM/s400/both+leaves+sample+mr.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<u><b>Homework:</b></u> Practice, Practice, Practice! Play with different shapes, leaves and flowers and such, and use the Directional Zigzag stitch. Build multiple colors up to achieve a painterly effect. And absolutely have FUN with it!<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u>Next Week:</u><u> Straight Stitch II - Thread Painting with a straight stitch.</u></span><br />
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Revisit this basic technique and play with more directional stitching in Straight Stitch Thread Painting. Achieve a completely different look to your thread painted pieces. Oh the things you can do with a straight stitch!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-38005527402639617102011-02-03T18:33:00.000-08:002011-02-05T12:29:22.502-08:00How To Series 1: Thread Painting 101 - Basic Straight StitchLast week we learned how to implement a basic Thread Painting stitch with the Zigzag Meander. I hope you did your homework and played with the different color threads and how the meander stitches out on the zigzag setting. For me, threads are the addictive part, there are so many colors, so many possibilities!<br />
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Now that you have the feel of this basic Thread Painting stitch, we can add to it. Lets look at our leaf from last week. There seems to be something missing, doesn't there? Our leaf needs a bit of detailing to bring it to life; we need to add vein lines!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl5obXDcNkVqp3g142G2fi0GOU-CLonNPKKc_dhzxNKaNYolUg4vHG6uEuEhNMGYNuqziVnS8IVVu7zReC77sJi1cMq2AJUmSxHPbsfc2jbX3k0x1rr5nIt7gRH7j63_vOxHcgy9jOV7Y/s1600/solid+Tp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl5obXDcNkVqp3g142G2fi0GOU-CLonNPKKc_dhzxNKaNYolUg4vHG6uEuEhNMGYNuqziVnS8IVVu7zReC77sJi1cMq2AJUmSxHPbsfc2jbX3k0x1rr5nIt7gRH7j63_vOxHcgy9jOV7Y/s320/solid+Tp.jpg" width="243" /></a></div><br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Directional Thread Painting: Basic Straight Stitch</span></u></div><br />
While the name is a bit misleading, the basic straight stitch used as a thread painting stitch can add quite a bit of detail to our work. As the leaf above stands now, we have basically added color, but not yet created a stunning fall leaf. Using this leaf as an example, adding vein line details we effectively pulling together all the thread painting we have done and making it not the focus, but rather a part of the whole piece.<br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Straight Line vs. S curve</span></u></div><br />
When we add our detail lines, in most cases we use an 'S' curve, rather than a nice straight line. Especially when mimicking nature. Now this is a guide, rather than a rule. In some cases a highly stylized design may call for straight lines. For what we are doing however, a nice natural S curve will give us the effect we are after. Shown below is a diagram of our leaf using straight lines to add the veins. See how unnatural they look even on our stylized simple leaf shape.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomdwgd46N8J-xabMssulnurR_iCxU35gF0u9bP5wl19dk01gJwUARxYpS4T1DkBifHtfDB4eafiE-RmEKPQK5yxAboTCOZAO86U5HHlDgYfEObJvENKuFssbh4dkK5Y4UD5ExjDXLHjQ/s1600/ss+stitch+diagram+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomdwgd46N8J-xabMssulnurR_iCxU35gF0u9bP5wl19dk01gJwUARxYpS4T1DkBifHtfDB4eafiE-RmEKPQK5yxAboTCOZAO86U5HHlDgYfEObJvENKuFssbh4dkK5Y4UD5ExjDXLHjQ/s320/ss+stitch+diagram+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Now see how adding a curve to our line detail gives our leaf a more natural appearance.<br />
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These lines do more than just add detail, they also help to give the leaf shape and movement. Especially when added to a Thread Painted leaf that uses shading and highlighting to add dimension. <br />
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Here we have examples of using an S curve on the Flower Bowl. The soft S curves in the line detail help to add shape and movement to the flower petals, bringing them to life.<br />
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This bowl was thread painted entirely using the straight stitch. It uses the same method as for the meander stitch (shading, mid tones, color pop, highlights) and really shows what a simple straight stitch can do.<br />
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In this detail shot of the Sunflowers sample, the leaf was thread painted with the meander stitch using shading, mid tones, and highlights plus a metallic and then veining detail was stitched. <br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">The 'S' Curve</span></u></div><br />
Not always an S but always curvy, sometimes we have to change up the look of our lines so they wont all start to look the same. Reversing the S, adding more or fewer curves, and accentuating or lessening the curves in this S shape will help you to blend and shape. Practice making S curves and variations on a sample piece of fabric backed with stabilizer. Just Play. <br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Backtracking</span></u></div><br />
Lets add that veining detail to our leaf. Just like in free motion quilting, we sometimes have to backtrack along our stitch line in order to add another line. Instead of stopping and starting again, we create our initial line and then reverse and stitch back along that same line until we are at the point where we want to add another line. Note that we are not using our back-stitch or reverse button! Simply stopping, pausing, then stitching back along the line you just stitched. Go slow and careful until you are familiar with the feel of the stitch. Then if you like, you can try speeding up a bit to a comfortable speed.<br />
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To begin we will do a very basic veining detail. Notice that I have turned the leaf upside down in relation to how it faces me. I like to see where I am going first, then I can backtrack much easier. It is a visual thing for me. <br />
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Stitch the main vein line down the leaf, remembering to use your S curve, and stop at the top of the leaf.<br />
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Backtrack just a bit, and stop.<br />
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Now begin smaller secondary veins, stopping at the ends and backtracking to the main vein line. It doesn't have to be perfect. Repeat this all the way down the vein, continuing to backtrack down to the next point at which you want to add a secondary vein.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi99974Wy5LnRYEnrL5uyCzT9dq_4eq3Frbj030pCkb3RTX6yZ6xk-5yq21-pHrAnn4Op1QDiJ4hMfWcU63Xu9wRusqPUU-Hzbort5WQ_trI9b51pLNcm798rM0n5pZ-U5dacNrq6_9pzk/s1600/SS+leaf+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi99974Wy5LnRYEnrL5uyCzT9dq_4eq3Frbj030pCkb3RTX6yZ6xk-5yq21-pHrAnn4Op1QDiJ4hMfWcU63Xu9wRusqPUU-Hzbort5WQ_trI9b51pLNcm798rM0n5pZ-U5dacNrq6_9pzk/s320/SS+leaf+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Continue in this manner until all your secondary veins are stitch, ending at the base of the leaf. Lock your stitch and trim any tails. Now that you have learned the basic method of adding these veins, take things a step further and add more veins off your secondary veins, and so on.<br />
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Using a bolder or stronger color will help your detail work stand out more. Variegated threads add even more color, and metallic threads will give it a touch of glitz. <br />
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<u><b>Homework:</b></u> Practice the basic S curve, adding in variations in size, curves, etc. Also practice backtracking along the stitch line to create veins or secondary stitch lines.<br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Next Week: Directional Zigzag Stitching </span></u></div><br />
Learn another technique using the zigzag stitch for more texture and even more dimension to your applique pieces.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-64304735541341176542011-01-27T12:26:00.000-08:002011-01-27T12:26:59.703-08:00Ho To Series 1: Thread Painting 101 - The Basic Stitch<u><span style="font-size: large;">The Beginning... </span></u><br />
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My adventure in Thread Painting started with some machine applique leaves. I had been working on a fall leaf wall quilt, when I realized my leaves looked nothing like the gorgeous full of color leaves outside my window. My kids were bringing me fallen leaves to trace and to match fabric. They were younger at the time, and before long I had a giant pile of leaves on my table! I began to realize that none of my fabric could compete with the real thing, and that to get those colors onto my leaves I would have to use the decorative threads. With some trial and error, and experimentation with different combination's, I finally had it: Thread Painting.<br />
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This is a much later version of those leaves with the basic thread painting stitch, but the technique is the same. The main difference is I am using better threads on both the top and bottom. You can also see that I have added embellishments to the leaves. By using this basic stitch on my leaves, I was able to transform a 'nice' applique into something 'WOW'. My entire focus on quilting and threads changed in that week of experimentation and I have never looked back!<br />
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">The Basic Thread Painting Stitch: Zigzag Meander</span></u><br />
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The basic Thread Painting stitch is really just a simple free motion zigzag. Our goal is to add color where we want it and by using a zigzag stitch we can achieve a painterly effect with our threads without much fuss. I use this stitch to add color, but also to shade and highlight. <br />
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<b>Machine Settings</b><br />
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Before we start Thread Painting, we first need to set our machine up right. Lower your <u>feed dogs</u>, attach your free motion <u>embroidery foot</u>, and insert an<u><b> <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/catalog/16">Embroidery or Topstitch needle</a>.</b></u> You should have bobbin thread in the bobbin, and a decorative embroidery thread in the needle. Check your machine's <u>tension</u>; every machine is different so we will start with the basic mid-range setting for your top tension. We will adjust this as needed once we start sewing. <br />
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If you can, adjust your <u>presser foot pressure</u> to zero or as high as it will go. This will help prevent any drag with the foot, allowing you to stitch with ease. <br />
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Set your machine to a <u>medium width zigzag</u> (on my machine this is about a 3 wide setting) and because we are free motion stitching our stitch <u>length will not matter</u>. A mid range width on our zigzag is a good place to start. This can be adjusted depending on what you are working on, but for most things and to start out this is a good setting. <br />
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<u><b>Before you start</b></u> - close your eyes, take a deep calming breath, roll your sholders forwards and backwards and release all your tension. Relax. Open your eyes; you are now ready to begin.<br />
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">Begin to Stitch</span></u><br />
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To start, lets use a practice piece of fabric with a tear away stabilizer in back. You don't have to bother with an applique piece unless you really want to. We really just want to get the feel for the stitch. Place your hands on either side of your fabric. (*tip: <i>use only your fingertips to move the fabric around. Your fingers have finer motor control than your entire hand and arm</i>) Begin to stitch slowly, moving the fabric slowly and smoothly under the needle. Don't worry about what it looks like at this point. For the moment we are just getting used to the feel. Move the fabric forwards, backwards, side to side, all around in a meander. If you feel comfortable, increase the speed of your machine and continue to move the fabric smoothly and slowly under the needle. It is important to not jerk the fabric around under the needle. These too quick movements will lead to broken needles. Relax, remember to breath and blink. (This is something I do and always have to remind myself: Breath! Blink!) <br />
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Pay attention to your Tension. Ideally we want only our embroidery thread to show on the top. This means that on the back of your piece you will see bobbin thread AND embroidery thread. The top thread will pull to the back, and that is OK. If you see bobbin thread on the top of your piece, you need to lower your tensions. The smaller the number on your tension dial or display, the lower the tension. Lessening top tension will allow the thread to pull more to the back. *In some of the Bernina machines, there is a special hole in the bobbin hook for the bobbin thread to go through, increasing your bobbin tension for free motion work. In order for any thread painting to work in these machines, this needs to be threaded correctly. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzlV0CzuElAV1LKFo0P9KK4YHc553o0C68yTcyiwbfB6IxuNXvRKKz4hFAL4KncWnd5outTHu50lJS-spoRW9ICWLX_EYyNlipjiI5OHIPUwuUlMiLD4yh4UzzDeh0laauTV0lMCyxfw/s1600/back+tension.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzlV0CzuElAV1LKFo0P9KK4YHc553o0C68yTcyiwbfB6IxuNXvRKKz4hFAL4KncWnd5outTHu50lJS-spoRW9ICWLX_EYyNlipjiI5OHIPUwuUlMiLD4yh4UzzDeh0laauTV0lMCyxfw/s400/back+tension.jpg" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">notice the bits of colorful embroidery thread on the back</td></tr>
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Now that we have adjusted our tensions and gotten the feel of the stitch, lets look at our results. When we move forward and backward our stitch looks rather like this:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZiw2_rTa0VJPmRCbP5oD1bvcjVmiNC3pA0Bg6wlTNPWdpmPORXAchY1SeUtT915ybQMd_N4gaUmnS2bKdE8kUtvodcztLC3tLSlZEQfLfry-8Txi429qDH8N7VURddFpTkXktaeHWEs/s1600/zz+stitch+diagram+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="104" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZiw2_rTa0VJPmRCbP5oD1bvcjVmiNC3pA0Bg6wlTNPWdpmPORXAchY1SeUtT915ybQMd_N4gaUmnS2bKdE8kUtvodcztLC3tLSlZEQfLfry-8Txi429qDH8N7VURddFpTkXktaeHWEs/s320/zz+stitch+diagram+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forward and backward produces a zigzag stitch </td></tr>
</tbody></table>In this diagram, the straight lines represent the direction of the stitch with the resulting stitch shown next. Once in a great while I use this forward/backward motion, but for the most part I don't want it to LOOK like a zigzag stitch. What we really want is a nice meander, which 'confuses' the real stitch pattern and simply applies color in many stitches of thread. This meander or stipple stitch looks something like this:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8faRrwJ0kGVMZVoBmDx9LjePfW0Dd_1SPohzR7VmUq-Tq7rLqk01JegI9iRJ1Nd-kCccUDyMlwaqOgbgta9BgD-fPFosxzkAGzoqkGKiZew917FeuyjRKMP_m0Qr2APq7kR-eSRDvLQI/s1600/zz+stitch+diagram+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8faRrwJ0kGVMZVoBmDx9LjePfW0Dd_1SPohzR7VmUq-Tq7rLqk01JegI9iRJ1Nd-kCccUDyMlwaqOgbgta9BgD-fPFosxzkAGzoqkGKiZew917FeuyjRKMP_m0Qr2APq7kR-eSRDvLQI/s320/zz+stitch+diagram+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">meander motion meander thread painting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>When applied to an applique, the results are much more apparent.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT1gY2IYuIZGf4lyKgeu6EIYj0TmmI2fgH1NFWLciLz3XnycBdA4yYOxSehP20oH9JmMCBD7aXCa7J6y2kzUxYMl37F6MvsA9x-N42uBRs1IDLQKAI-bB0yFMsk4Cs9R0U73ClTypOcpA/s1600/right+way.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT1gY2IYuIZGf4lyKgeu6EIYj0TmmI2fgH1NFWLciLz3XnycBdA4yYOxSehP20oH9JmMCBD7aXCa7J6y2kzUxYMl37F6MvsA9x-N42uBRs1IDLQKAI-bB0yFMsk4Cs9R0U73ClTypOcpA/s320/right+way.jpg" width="249" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">meander motion results</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8iZvHvj-3c7KLLW7YHmrNJC3PTxbgswWRH_890uaU1ZMY8VGW8NljP0VGMIM86vBOper97Haqyn3a3GUr1u-K9-Gy3Qf-9qUf2K1yfVoMM5zYE9oPrEckL6a-XHqnoifsuyBTYuJIKY4/s1600/wrong+way.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8iZvHvj-3c7KLLW7YHmrNJC3PTxbgswWRH_890uaU1ZMY8VGW8NljP0VGMIM86vBOper97Haqyn3a3GUr1u-K9-Gy3Qf-9qUf2K1yfVoMM5zYE9oPrEckL6a-XHqnoifsuyBTYuJIKY4/s320/wrong+way.jpg" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">forward/backward motion results</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Multiple colors can be layered to create shadow and depth, color pop, and highlights. Start with your shadows and dark colors, working your way up to highlights.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZj2vZ8W_GIFEOMMtLXxCdSabTzAMVCvE9oyARXEnWbNzQn7N5ko0ZxCYFUlxIBM1SSQ9MyhgfJwxvPRK-uG49xo0S82ZmmF66cpm5D1NZRma_TwyF6nuwsi1QyDoQ83N9uImxrNk4iw/s1600/solid+Tp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZj2vZ8W_GIFEOMMtLXxCdSabTzAMVCvE9oyARXEnWbNzQn7N5ko0ZxCYFUlxIBM1SSQ9MyhgfJwxvPRK-uG49xo0S82ZmmF66cpm5D1NZRma_TwyF6nuwsi1QyDoQ83N9uImxrNk4iw/s320/solid+Tp.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">solid threads</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Using variegated threads can add quite a lot of color pop. I love to use these threads to add multiple color hues at once, to blend and transition colors, and sometimes to add that bit of zing to a piece. They tend to blend themselves into a piece better, without being extremely stark. Play with the different variegated threads, their results will surprise you.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51R123H54qrg0XiTu-bOYLtib_l79KQJl6j1gYkOm_seo2oYSR97nFZG1BCzx6n2pKcwc4MqnKeGT2jLYF5qGeuzquoZxPDe18SLVIzwzVPMq5_kVzUCaRv6CXEUVJtYUmMdxgq8KQdo/s1600/variegated+TP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51R123H54qrg0XiTu-bOYLtib_l79KQJl6j1gYkOm_seo2oYSR97nFZG1BCzx6n2pKcwc4MqnKeGT2jLYF5qGeuzquoZxPDe18SLVIzwzVPMq5_kVzUCaRv6CXEUVJtYUmMdxgq8KQdo/s320/variegated+TP.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">variegated threads</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Rarely do I use only one or the other type of thread. The best results are obtained by using a combination of both.<br />
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<u><b>Homework:</b></u> Practice, Practice, Practice! Play and have fun with this basic Thread Painting stitch. Experiment with the meander stitch motion, different threads and colors, and blending. If you want to practice on the leaf shown in this tutorial, I have created a small <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/freeproject">PDF file</a> for you to download. It has some very basic instructions for fusible and machine applique. <br />
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">Next Week: Directional Thread Painting - Straight Stitch</span></u><br />
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Directional Thread Painting means we will stitch in specific directions to get a specific look. This can be done with both a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch. To get a feel for the directional stitch we will start with the Straight stitch. You'll be amazed at what you can do with a straight stitch! See you next week!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-9992343646217588282011-01-20T12:01:00.000-08:002011-01-24T08:50:58.130-08:00How To Series 1: Thread Painting 101 - Supplies Part 2Last week we began talking about the proper supplies for Thread Painting. Now that we have the correct machine feet and needles ready, it is time to talk about Thread, Bobbin Thread, and Stabilizers. Remember, it is important to start with the correct supplies in order to be successful in our Thread Painting adventures!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5-92O4QTqJ3HBiXRPToPr83s51jWTkCGaSCfVCGnJUHdGVt0_OMldpip5VES_62J0VYEkqIyUwdUWZ4YSnBJls1CnElJZQru7jmWXZf-FKvOui-LEm05byveKNHMDxRoexPSpIVeswhY/s1600/Tote+Close+Up+LR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5-92O4QTqJ3HBiXRPToPr83s51jWTkCGaSCfVCGnJUHdGVt0_OMldpip5VES_62J0VYEkqIyUwdUWZ4YSnBJls1CnElJZQru7jmWXZf-FKvOui-LEm05byveKNHMDxRoexPSpIVeswhY/s320/Tote+Close+Up+LR.jpg" width="251" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/31">'Sunflowers'</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>While this tutorial is not an advertisement for any other company, I have included the names of several brand names that I like and use daily. What I am giving you here is my 'formula' if you will, that I use to get the results you see in my work. These are the supplies and brands that work best for me.<br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Decorative Embroidery Thread:</span></u></div><br />
Because I am a Thread-a-holic, I have a TON of thread in my thread stash. Show me a pretty thread and I cannot resist! I love to try out new threads and am always on the lookout for the unusual or for the 'perfect' color thread, which changes constantly depending on what project I am working on at the moment. There are many different types of thread and for Thread Painting we will be starting with a basic Embroidery thread. The two main types of embroidery thread are Rayon and Polyester. Both are very shiny with a huge range of colors. We will talk about these first, and then later in the series when we have gotten the basics down, we can get into Metallic and Specialty threads.<br />
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Rayon embroidery threads are shiny, colorful, fairly colorfast, but not very strong. Since they are meant to be decorative and not hold things together (IE: a seam on a garment) they work very well for decorative embroidery. Some of my favorite brands of Rayon thread are: Robison Anton, YLI, Madeira, and WonderFil.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRTuVQfZQYhzADGsfEhfBUO0qO-YvCUlVb7zMeY7_HTcOhsdwknPUZBoTJSIPqnrpfWSPVE0WMHhF1LNxk_HJ8DykemOB7k_7IA7nUxmjE019APTAs4D8oBEf3tE3r-WZUx8BXuowM4nI/s1600/rayon+threads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="97" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRTuVQfZQYhzADGsfEhfBUO0qO-YvCUlVb7zMeY7_HTcOhsdwknPUZBoTJSIPqnrpfWSPVE0WMHhF1LNxk_HJ8DykemOB7k_7IA7nUxmjE019APTAs4D8oBEf3tE3r-WZUx8BXuowM4nI/s400/rayon+threads.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Polyester embroidery threads are also shiny, colorful, very colorfast, and very strong. While I don't sew my seams with this thread, it is good to know that the Thread Painting I do will hold up to the test of time, wear, and light. They are also much less troublesome in the machine than rayon threads. Since it is a stronger thread to begin with and usually less lint (and therefore drag on the needle), there is less shredding and breakage. My favorite brand of Polyester embroidery thread is by far <b>Superior Threads</b>. In fact I will reach for this thread before any other brand when I am thread painting. I also have in my thread stash Isocord, and Hemmingworth. Because a polyester thread will melt at higher iron temperatures, keep a pressing cloth on hand to cover your work with when ironing, and try to iron from the back when possible.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Oj8jQx6MEvbDhngB6UO4LbbGPP58yPuy1Lf-KucnEiAZ-iEgaye8cogNQBxni7Tvb-d8BiWyxgQz_oEFUdq8i8luD_l-Rnxuxr-lhR0DHpvZCcrZd1Wrz4ZCbjeWV7uieDBaOZVvGaM/s1600/polyester+threads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Oj8jQx6MEvbDhngB6UO4LbbGPP58yPuy1Lf-KucnEiAZ-iEgaye8cogNQBxni7Tvb-d8BiWyxgQz_oEFUdq8i8luD_l-Rnxuxr-lhR0DHpvZCcrZd1Wrz4ZCbjeWV7uieDBaOZVvGaM/s400/polyester+threads.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">Spool vs. Cone</span></u></div><br />
Embroidery threads come wound onto a spool or a cone and both come in various sizes. These are wound differently and need to be 'unwound' differently as well. How the thread feeds into your machine will affect how it sews onto your fabric. A spool is usually wound straight and should have the thread coming off the side of the spool. Cones are cross wound (note the direction of the thread on the cone) and need the thread to come off the top of the cone.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi15uFP_SnkwREjXRgkDqCv9cnz9sSR1cuNzNhA-6_CL5-3FwsyQknaZyrCDw4Tg3N1OdfinuRIKp83oKfL4CsSXU__PTaGjtWdyF3x7AXAdbCOVDi8l_6cNUp3lNcHdeswiBXCZnSwFo/s1600/spool+vs+bobbin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi15uFP_SnkwREjXRgkDqCv9cnz9sSR1cuNzNhA-6_CL5-3FwsyQknaZyrCDw4Tg3N1OdfinuRIKp83oKfL4CsSXU__PTaGjtWdyF3x7AXAdbCOVDi8l_6cNUp3lNcHdeswiBXCZnSwFo/s1600/spool+vs+bobbin.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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When thread is pulled off a spool or cone incorrectly, it causes it to twist more and that can lead to tension and breakage issues. Since all machines are different, there are a few adapters out there that can help you adjust the way your spool or cone feeds into your machine. A spool adapter will help with machines with vertical spool holders, allowing thread to be pulled off the spool from the side. Slip the open end onto the spool holder with the little notch on the end facing up to keep the spool in place. Cone adapters will allow the cone to sit upright while pulling thread from the top. These adapters usually sit behind or to the side of your machine. Sometimes my thread wants to 'puddle' off the cone too quickly causing problems with tangling and twisting. A <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/69">thread net</a> helps to tame these unruly threads without adding a lot of additional tension. I also use thread nets to store some of these more unruly threads.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1S3yqYM-htoRSetqF18ooz_jXkCxmYyUrZ9NMK-3HT9MzY_Rv2_bk-0Ykq86TeoO1AeJ34SarHFTX0Wqqwx5WIApNIliT9f18yim_fItvE1N6pKvczX-MUxmCLYpIYeTjodnL6yA0vNw/s1600/adapters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1S3yqYM-htoRSetqF18ooz_jXkCxmYyUrZ9NMK-3HT9MzY_Rv2_bk-0Ykq86TeoO1AeJ34SarHFTX0Wqqwx5WIApNIliT9f18yim_fItvE1N6pKvczX-MUxmCLYpIYeTjodnL6yA0vNw/s400/adapters.jpg" width="133" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDxDNaeL7FDewZx9aOpo7Q8WW6Grz1745RNZ-2T6pAhhojm_dZcvBU_4418BzPVCgl_FLu0a9W3bLwyhIoY91I6NsGWVa_-t7fdrL8y8aIRnQzannQ02EszIx9DpKKOH7xRuWg-Q2isyY/s1600/thread+net.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDxDNaeL7FDewZx9aOpo7Q8WW6Grz1745RNZ-2T6pAhhojm_dZcvBU_4418BzPVCgl_FLu0a9W3bLwyhIoY91I6NsGWVa_-t7fdrL8y8aIRnQzannQ02EszIx9DpKKOH7xRuWg-Q2isyY/s200/thread+net.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/69">Thread Net</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1S3yqYM-htoRSetqF18ooz_jXkCxmYyUrZ9NMK-3HT9MzY_Rv2_bk-0Ykq86TeoO1AeJ34SarHFTX0Wqqwx5WIApNIliT9f18yim_fItvE1N6pKvczX-MUxmCLYpIYeTjodnL6yA0vNw/s1600/adapters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><div style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Bobbin Thread:</u></span></div><br />
Bobbin thread refers to a 60 - 65 weight two ply polyester thread used in the bobbin when embroidering. Since your top threads will pull to the back (more on this later on) so that your bobbin thread doesn't show on top, you end up with much more thread on the back of your piece. In order to keep this bulk down, and also to help form nicer stitches, we use a bobbin thread. While there are several types of bobbin thread, and I have tried out any and all I can get my paws on, I now only use one bobbin thread: <u>Bottom Line</u> by Superior Threads. At this time they are the ONLY company that manufactures an excellent quality bobbin thread in a huge range of colors. While I tend to keep with a fairly neutral color pallet for my bobbin threads (OK, I'm lazy and don't like to keep changing my bobbin!) this range of colors comes in extremely handy. Shown here is my pallet of bobbin threads. A light grey, medium grey, pink, deep red, green and a beige tone are what I use most often.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG2yix0lYPZZyXNbMUBX3Wz08ZdisCO_KgQtGTd5hF1NCmmJswHj7PoIP6aIAWPnKzTW1-fHepqUsZdboPabTmCjCI4orBnwOQNfr4mJvU3Zl0g-V1gsOpV4sEKzE6f5r2J_rtnNKVsoE/s1600/bottom+line.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG2yix0lYPZZyXNbMUBX3Wz08ZdisCO_KgQtGTd5hF1NCmmJswHj7PoIP6aIAWPnKzTW1-fHepqUsZdboPabTmCjCI4orBnwOQNfr4mJvU3Zl0g-V1gsOpV4sEKzE6f5r2J_rtnNKVsoE/s400/bottom+line.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<div style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Stabilizers:</u></span></div><br />
Have you ever tried to do a zigzag stitch on a plain piece of fabric? Remember how the fabric puckered up into that zigzag stitch and everything distorted? Well the same thing will happen when we Thread Paint unless we use some sort of stabilizer. I have three main ways I stabilize, with other variations we will get into later on for special techniques. A <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/77"><b>Tear Away</b></a> stabilizer (I use Pellon Stitch n Tear) can be partially removed after stitching is done. You can't tear it out from an area that is heavily thread painted, but you can remove the excess from around it. I use this stabilizer when doing fusible machine applique. Once my applique is finished, if I am not heavily thread painting I remove the stabilizer from under the applique piece. The stabilizer surrounding the applique is left, creating a sort of 'hoop' around the area to be thread painted. If I do plan on heavily thread painting, I leave the stabilizer under the applique for additional support. The piece is thread painted and then the outer areas of stabilizer is removed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSnc9aYB7z-mramXJDR7_Qd3CCFHdH7YlLn5FnJKgiCggU-YOrbX2Cxdj9v0vsUh89Vmrzxqzan58ZbZMHeHpDEh1eaf6ca_EuTMQpDTrPj1eVA9Oas1zxWla3SvPYWzgzxo4Jt4bjYEY/s1600/stitch+n+tear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSnc9aYB7z-mramXJDR7_Qd3CCFHdH7YlLn5FnJKgiCggU-YOrbX2Cxdj9v0vsUh89Vmrzxqzan58ZbZMHeHpDEh1eaf6ca_EuTMQpDTrPj1eVA9Oas1zxWla3SvPYWzgzxo4Jt4bjYEY/s320/stitch+n+tear.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS07qXMlyPSYVp-3DhyphenhyphenoKEl-phG-yTdPKoMqD9GR8K_1yHYV0vp5HKRLWlTvepcleq4AjIRd_L4FJ_lTW3fsXRS_lrvfNxCKtsI1dQIyiuQVmAul8tkqopdIXIeAvUk-cyp4uyZlksdhk/s1600/stitch+n+tear+done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS07qXMlyPSYVp-3DhyphenhyphenoKEl-phG-yTdPKoMqD9GR8K_1yHYV0vp5HKRLWlTvepcleq4AjIRd_L4FJ_lTW3fsXRS_lrvfNxCKtsI1dQIyiuQVmAul8tkqopdIXIeAvUk-cyp4uyZlksdhk/s320/stitch+n+tear+done.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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When I thread paint really heavily on an entire piece, on or off my applique designs, I use a leave in heavy weight stabilizer. <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/78">Decor Bond</a> is my first choice here because it has a built in fusible on one side, allowing me to fuse it to the back of my piece. Because it is fused (notice the shine on the sample below) my fabric is now completely stabilized, plus I dont have to worry about my fabric moving around or loosing my stabilizer before I begin stitching.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrjnuDwkx0u5jRFrQ1pl6PjB6GxH_HEUbrU3tzmg9zwvyPcD9AK7TS1PpyKPb3aIf5pb5Q4pavjVXhPn7aCRvQauGb_BEvSULGxWJycc7y7rMTYQITW1EcHoFvrhdfe3x9XnLfQ5g_GA/s1600/decor+bond.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrjnuDwkx0u5jRFrQ1pl6PjB6GxH_HEUbrU3tzmg9zwvyPcD9AK7TS1PpyKPb3aIf5pb5Q4pavjVXhPn7aCRvQauGb_BEvSULGxWJycc7y7rMTYQITW1EcHoFvrhdfe3x9XnLfQ5g_GA/s320/decor+bond.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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If I want to keep my piece light weight with no stabilizers, such as on a sheer fabric or a wearable, I use a hoop. These are not hoops you do cross stitch on. These hoops are made to go under the machine and fit under your machine's foot. For light to medium light thread painting, a spring hoop will work very well. For heavier work, use a wood hoop.<br />
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<u style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-size: large;">Next Week: </span></u><br />
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By starting with the correct supplies and knowing why these specific items work better, you will hopefully have a much more successful start to Thread Painting. And, now that we have covered the basic list of supplies, we can start actually Thread Painting! Don't worry, we will take this in baby steps so that you can practice and become familiar with each kind of stitch before moving onto the next one. First up: Basic Thread Painting Stitch - Meander Zigzag. This is the easiest stitch to start with and will let you get used to the feel of free motion zigzag while playing with color. See you next week!<br />
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Be sure to visit my website: <a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/">www.LaughingCatDesignsEtc.com </a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-90476820448262724412011-01-16T12:42:00.000-08:002011-01-16T12:42:29.291-08:00Leaf Bowls Pattern Done!The new Leaf Bowls pattern is done. This fiber art bowls pattern has been in the works for quite some time. Like the Flower Bowls, this was originally a very popular class that I had many requests for patterns for the project. My biggest issue was the Thread Painting, how to do the instructions to make it clear and fairly simple, with step by step diagrams. Once I figured a way to do this, the rest of the pattern fell into place. I did help that this pattern was pretty much test sewn, with many helpful comments from students and friends, before the 'real' pattern ever came out. I am very happy with how this pattern turned out and even more with how the samples turned out. There are three sizes of leaf bowls, my favorite is of course the largest one.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSMuCK1UyEFcz35jOuRArGcmYrDgI6kHFs3lLWPK54hyphenhyphen2XiukUwqLKFn3cnRcweLfk6g4tZsvaY0xSwwQrqdM-fEwqs-9PPO7axZaeKy3P3Yuc2dd9TpvZu-slyBNwUc3xou1vSIRq-P8/s1600/Leaf+Bowl+Pattern+Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSMuCK1UyEFcz35jOuRArGcmYrDgI6kHFs3lLWPK54hyphenhyphen2XiukUwqLKFn3cnRcweLfk6g4tZsvaY0xSwwQrqdM-fEwqs-9PPO7axZaeKy3P3Yuc2dd9TpvZu-slyBNwUc3xou1vSIRq-P8/s400/Leaf+Bowl+Pattern+Cover.jpg" width="318" /></a></div><br />
Here is a close up of the pattern cover photo. Notice the embellishing along the veins using couched decorative yarns and hand sewn beads from Embellishment Village. I just love how they added more texture and sparkle to the Leaf Bowls.<br />
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This pattern is now available at the<a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/"> Laughing Cat Designs</a> website! <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-22778707039196237742011-01-14T11:08:00.000-08:002011-01-24T08:46:29.400-08:00How To Series 1: Thread Painting 101 - Supplies Part IThread Painting, once you have the basic steps and a bit of practice, can be quite an effective way to enhance your textile art. Often misinterpreted, Thread Painting is the process of applying color to your fabric using decorative threads with your sewing machine or 'painting with thread'. Think of your machine and needle as the paint brush and your decorative threads as your pallet. Transform a basic applique design into a work of art by adding color, shading, and highlights. Most often, I use Thread Painting on my applique designs to really bring them to life.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/node/27">Hummingbirds and Fucshias</a></td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Before we get into how to Thread Paint, we need to talk about the proper supplies so that we start off on the right foot. These are the basic supplies that will get you started Thread Painting. Other more specialized tools will be covered later on in the series when we get into the slightly more advanced techniques. Because we are going into a bit of detail on some supplies, this Supplies post will be in two parts. Part II will be posted next Thursday.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #351c75; text-align: left;"><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><b>Needles: </b></span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For Thread Painting I mainly use two types of needles in my machine: an<a href="http://www.laughingcatdesignsetc.com/catalog/16"> Embroidery size 75/11 and a Topstitch size 90/14</a> or 100/16 depending on thread type.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> My default is the Embroidery needle. This needle has a slightly larger and polished eye for easier passage of decorative threads. It has a wider scarf or groove above the eye to help protect decorative threads from shredding or breaking and allows it to guide evenly through the eye. A hump between the eye and scarf allow for better loop formation, which will help to avoid skipped stitches. This needle also has a higher flexural strength (think of that side to side motion used for embroidery) allowing for longer life and less needle breakage. The eye and groove both have very well rounded edges to keep from shredding your thread. The size 11 I feel is a good balance between a strong needle that doesn't leave a really large hole in my fabric. Note the red band on the needle, this is to differentiate the Embroidery needle from other needles. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdxLPiCjfNFfOOGbBtm39ZqZwggPCa4Cuy5_4JKMSijOdXr04kvIEIScwy0pyK-bCj8ci2Vf_THy0I1pBcb8hPhxowcCc-az2l1UMUWa-VW_HEO8chdKN5_WMEKeBUHnf92CxApwAT6Q/s1600/Embroidery+needle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdxLPiCjfNFfOOGbBtm39ZqZwggPCa4Cuy5_4JKMSijOdXr04kvIEIScwy0pyK-bCj8ci2Vf_THy0I1pBcb8hPhxowcCc-az2l1UMUWa-VW_HEO8chdKN5_WMEKeBUHnf92CxApwAT6Q/s400/Embroidery+needle.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When I run into a 'problem' thread or use a thicker or metallic thread, I turn to the Topstitch needle. The two sizes are handy; a 90/14 is what I usually start with for metallic or thicker threads and then if needed I move to the 100/16 for thicker threads. I have been told that the Topstitch needle is exactly the same as the metallica needle, and it certainly works and looks the same. Save your money, buy the Topstitch and skip the others. As you can see Topstitch needles have a much larger coated and polished eye to accommodate those heavier threads. A larger scarf or groove helps prevent shredding of the thread during stitch formation and the needle has a sharper point. Recently, Superior Threads started distributing their own brand of Topstitch needles. They have a very thin coating of titanium on them (gold coating as shown in the picture) which hugely increases the life of the needle. Titanium coating doesn't make your needle stronger, it is to keep the needle point sharp and the surface smooth and free of nicks and burrs for much longer than the average needle. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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Machine feet vary quite a bit between the different brands of machines, with each brand having several different options to choose from. The main thing to look for in a free motion foot to use for Thread Painting, is that it needs to accommodate a zigzag stitch. A zigzag is the most commonly used Thread Painting stitch. Additionally I like a foot that has a clear base so that you can see as much of the surface you are stitching on as possible. Pictured below are several feet from several brands of machines that I use for Thread Painting. Notice in the second picture the elongated opening that will allow for a zigzag stitch to be used.<br />
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</div>OK, that's it for this week. Stay tuned for next week when we discuss Threads: Decorative Embroidery Thread & Bobbin Thread, Stabilizers/Hoops, plus 'other handy things to have on hand'.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-87855891179791102742011-01-10T07:50:00.000-08:002011-01-10T07:50:02.366-08:00Another Leaf BowlThe largest leaf is done! This time I used my favorite vibrant and bright fall colors. After taking this picture I added couched decorative yarns to the veins. The beads are on my beading mat and I am ready to start embellishing both leaves. The pattern should be available in about a week.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoYVDfYMjsbfhw_gHmFobwZKZLv06eN9TQcDQJw4iaQIowIxOh4LhD89qUxHdyhmIaEv9Lm_tbw4L7AY3OY4yvzNr6E05Hsv5chwKA3TFAksu_3zGgzsJfdjJKYn_He6qi38t4gUDsleY/s1600/both+leaves+sample+mr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoYVDfYMjsbfhw_gHmFobwZKZLv06eN9TQcDQJw4iaQIowIxOh4LhD89qUxHdyhmIaEv9Lm_tbw4L7AY3OY4yvzNr6E05Hsv5chwKA3TFAksu_3zGgzsJfdjJKYn_He6qi38t4gUDsleY/s320/both+leaves+sample+mr.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
In the mean time, if you haven't seen them yet, check out the Flower Bowls pattern! This pattern is available now, also by popular demand. So fun to do, and easy with step by step Thread Painting instructions. <br />
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This photo was taken by Embellishment Village, I think the colors are more true here.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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So tell me, what other types of Fiber Art Bowls would you like to see?</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1685648606748863213.post-88205767087292186032011-01-02T13:51:00.000-08:002011-01-02T13:51:21.772-08:00Happy New Year!I am starting off the new year with a new blog! In the past, I have not done so well at posting regularly on a blog but I will endeavor to do better with this one.<br />
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A new Year, a new Blog, and a new Pattern! Very soon I will be releasing the second pattern in the Fiber Art Bowls series (yes, more to come!) Some of you are familiar with the classes I have taught for Thread Painted Flower Bowls and Leaf Bowls. Many students and observers have asked for patterns. Earlier this year I released the Thread Painted and Embellished Flower Bowls pattern and soon will be releasing Thread Painted and Embellished Leaf Bowls. Here is a sneak peek:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF_w4R8UMKMf_ZhBdniOXwDBQUMOLZBPIRiNy0aHxz0hV66JuN-f1r5TqqX3VwxEWcDKxFaZ-cXvt73lkNpljPaS570OP6D_2jPulO1HWJ42WFmD3h4MWIfZuaGifvz0H-6_Ct_w7U_CM/s1600/green+leaf+sample+mr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF_w4R8UMKMf_ZhBdniOXwDBQUMOLZBPIRiNy0aHxz0hV66JuN-f1r5TqqX3VwxEWcDKxFaZ-cXvt73lkNpljPaS570OP6D_2jPulO1HWJ42WFmD3h4MWIfZuaGifvz0H-6_Ct_w7U_CM/s320/green+leaf+sample+mr.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I have always made leaf bowls in fall colors. During one of my classes a student made a 'spring leaf' in a beautiful bright green and I just fell in love with the color. This bowl isn't finished yet! I still have to add embellishments, so stay tuned for more...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3